The Cam Lobe

The Saddest Song

2009-03-10T08:54:00.000-06:00

Only two more days, until your birthday
Yesterday was mine
You'll be turning five
I know what it's like, growing up without your father in your life
So I pretend, I'm doing all I can
And I hope someday you'll find it in your heart

To understand
Why I'm not around
And forgive me for not being in your life

I remember waiting
For you to come
Remember waiting
For you to call
Remember waiting there to find nothing at all
I remember waiting
For you to come
Remember waiting
For you to call
Waiting there to find nothing at all

Maybe someday
you'll really get to know me
not just FROM letters read to you
I pray I get the chance
To make it up to you
We got a lot of catching up to do

So I pretend, I'm doing all I can
And hope someday you'll find it in your heart

To understand
Why I'm not around
And forgive me for not being in your life

I remember waiting
For you to come
Remember waiting
For you to call
Remember waiting there to find nothing at all
I remember waiting
For you to come
Remember waiting
For you to call
Waiting there to find nothing at all

Forgive me!
I'm so sorry!
I will make it up to you....

I Knew You Before

2008-12-17T10:50:00.002-07:00

You were once a sweet little girl
so innocent and pure
Your eyes were open and sure
anyone could look right in

I followed closely your gaze
you looked up towards the sky
But I watched your face drift away
other things had caught your eye

The magazines and media supplied you with their plastic protocol
And maybe music television really is the devil after all
But all I can say is I knew you before
You were beautiful back then
before you grew up, before you gave in

You dream of sharing your heart
Instead you share your bed
And your heart beats empty and cold
With all the tears that you have shed

You dream of baring your soul
Instead you bare more skin
And you wear dark glasses to keep
Anyone from looking in

The magazines and media supplied you with their plastic protocol
Oh, and maybe music television really is the devil after all
But all I can say is I knew you before
You were beautiful back then
Before you grew up, before you gave in

And all you want is to hear the words:
"Dear baby I love you"
So you hike your skirt higher still
'Till there eyes are all on you

You drive in fast foreign cars
The color of your sin
And you tint your windows to keep
Anyone from looking in

Oh, and all I can say is I knew you before
You were beautiful back then
Before you grew up, before you gave in

And all I can say is I knew you before
You were beautiful back then

You could be beautiful again..

2008-12-11T15:15:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

This is a bit last-minute, but we wanted to let you know about an important fundraiser taking place tomorrow night at Momentum...

SUWA Fundraiser
Friday, December 12 @ 8pm
Momentum Climbing Gym

Momentum Climbing gym is hosting a fundraiser for Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance this Friday from 8-12pm. Music and entertainment will be provided. Climbing from 8-10 is $15 - $5 of that goes to SUWA. The silent auction is from 10-11:30ish - entrance fee is $5 (which also goes to SUWA).

The fundraiser will benefit SUWA to fight oil drilling and land auctions in our prime wild places. The BLM and the Bush Administration are trying to sell off climbing, hiking, biking, and riverside land for oil and gas development. Please do not be silent. Come join the fun and party for our wild lands! Movie, band, and art project will be provided.

To read more about the land sale, click here: http://www.suwa.org/site/PageServer?pagename=December2008_LeaseSaleArticle.

Bring your friends and family!

Thrice- Cold Cash and Colder Hearts

2008-12-05T11:52:00.001-07:00

They are sick, they are poor
And they die by the thousands and we look away
They are wolves at the door
And they're not gonna move us or get in our way

'Cause we don't have the time
Here at the top of the world
Feeling alright
Here at the top of the world

We hold our own by keeping our hearts cold

Different god, darker skin
They are just not a burden that we'd like to bear
They are living in "sin"
There are so many reasons for us not to care

But I'm feeling alright
Here at the top of the world
Doing just fine
Here at the top of the world

We've learned money matters most
So we keep our cards held close
Here at the top of the world

We hold our own by keeping our hearts cold
And we've learned what matters most
So we keep our hearts cold

They are no one
They are nowhere
They are not our problem
Not worth saving
Nonexistent if we keep our hearts cold

They are no one
They are nowhere

Moab Trails at Risk by Drilling Leases

2008-11-24T10:02:00.009-07:00

Blog @ Mountain Hardwear

"... BLM should balance the need for energy production with the benefits of recreation and tourism. Please tell BLM officials to protect mountain biking and Moab's sustainable recreation economy by withdrawing parcels near Porcupine Rim, Amasa Back, Barlett Wash and Tusher Canyon. The deadline for comments is Dec. 3."

Do something useful today. If these trails or this landscape mean anything to you, print out the protest letter from the linked page above and send via mail or fax to the BLM.

Attractive Girls Union Refuses To Talk With Mike Greenman

2008-11-21T09:45:00.001-07:00

2008-11-20T09:14:00.003-07:00

if i could i'd shed you
like this robe
drop you to the floor
and step away
naked and new...

i can't

you are knotted
at my waist
you can't be undone
only half free

i'll wear you forever.

2008-11-19T16:17:00.002-07:00

...(Red stained eyes. Red stained eyes)
Was the, the change worth it?
(Red!)
Was the
(Stained!)
Divorce
(Eyes!)
Worth it?
(Red!)

Missing Hikers' Story Will Make Great Movie

2008-05-21T08:14:00.000-06:00

Another The North Face Post

2008-04-08T07:38:00.005-06:00

I'm too lazy today to rehash this post on my site...so check it out over at the Piton and make them feel worthwhile...

Just In Case You Missed It

The Simpsons in Alaska...

2008-03-24T12:43:00.004-06:00

Simpsons DVD / Alaska

via The Piton

Sleep Now In The Fire

2008-03-10T10:16:00.000-06:00

God I miss this band...

The Wind

2008-03-10T09:44:00.001-06:00

On "Free-riding"

2008-02-28T08:37:00.005-07:00

Interesting Philosophy Bites interview with Richard Tuck about the ethical ramifications of "free-riding"

AUDIO

Read more about the "free-rider problem" at SEP

Thanks to Nigel Warburton, Philosophy Bites, SEP, and Heinz Zak

Fixed Push

2008-02-25T15:37:00.001-07:00

Gelande Quaffing in Utah

2008-02-20T14:26:00.000-07:00

Drinking 3.2 is okay above 8000 ft.

Jess, this one IS for you

2008-02-20T09:46:00.001-07:00

Top 5 Rules for Engineers Dealing with Drafters

2008-02-19T11:09:00.007-07:00

Never give me work in the morning. Always wait until 3:45 and then bring it to me. The challenge of a deadline is refreshing.
If it's a rush job, run in and interrupt me every 10 minutes to inquire how it's going, or even better hover behind me advising every keystroke. That helps.
If you give me more than one job, don't tell which has priority. I am psychic.
If you have special instructions for a job, do not write them down. In fact save them until the job is almost done. No point in confusing me with useful information.
Tell me about your little problems. No one else has any and it's nice to know someone is less fortunate. I especially like the story about having to pay so much tax on the bonus check for being such a good engineer.

Ganked from The Lazy Drafter

Update on the "wilderness advocacy = terr-ist support " idiocy

2008-02-19T07:36:00.009-07:00

GetOutdoors is discussing the letter that I mentioned last month. Climb_ca, you are my only friend...

More commie-pinko-treehugger-hippie nonsense...

2008-02-15T07:43:00.009-07:00

According to scientists at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, there is a 50 percent chance Lake Mead will run dry by 2021.

Scripps report

Romney Defends Himself Against Allegations of Tolerance

2008-02-07T08:41:00.001-07:00

***This just in...Romney's out of the race...but still funny nonetheless.***

Go do something good today...

2008-02-01T07:57:00.000-07:00

Oppose Italian Nuclear Waste in Utah (Feb. 1st, 2pm-4pm)

Your Lexus Hybrid makes you look like an idiot...

2008-01-22T15:17:00.000-07:00

I read something about a 15,000(!) sq. ft. home in Florida that will be the first home of its size to be certified green by the U.S. Green Building Council and the Florida Green Building Council. The builder of the house however, is frustrated with LEED for stipulating that an 26 additional points would be needed to compensate for the size of his structure.

He wonders, "Why are you penalising someone who wants to go green? "

I wonder, "Who the f*ck needs a 15,000 sf home?"

While I appreciate that this guy wants to be "green", I cannot see how it can be ethically or environmentally responsible of anybody to build such an atrocious home. Just imagine the sheer amount of resources used to construct this beast, "sustainable materials" or no. Its absolutely ridiculous.

The trouble is that being green is becoming fashionable, and fashion in this society equates to excess and posturing. How about some personal and ethical responsibility? If you want to be environmentally sustainable, you need to make some concessions. Ride the bus, or even better, a bike, and do it as much as possible. Buy a practical, fuel efficient vehicle if you have to drive. Instead of spending $104,000 on an LS600h, how about spending $24,000 on a Prius, or even better, $2500 on a 10 year old Tercel that gets 40 mpg, and give the rest of your money to an advocacy group who can pressure ( or bribe) the powers that be into effecting broader changes. Live in a practical home, close to your work. Grow your own food or buy it from local sources. Going to Whole Foods to buy produce that has been flown in from South America doesn't count. Volunteer your time to help clean up the natural areas near your home. Get your hands dirty.

The list can go on and on. Bottom line: You trendy hollywood greenies-subscribing to Cosmo's "50 ways to be eco-chic"-YOU ARE STILL CONSUMING.

The important thing to remember is this...

"Stuffing feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."

Wilderness is bad.... mmmkay?

2008-01-22T11:12:00.000-07:00

At least it is according to some Utah lawmakers. Apparently, having designated wilderness areas in Utah and elsewhere is un-American and downright "terr-ist". Two douchebag legislators have purportedly authored a letter which suggests that environmental activist groups such as the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance (SUWA), are "weakening America" through their environmental conservancy efforts.
The gist of the letter, authored by Reps. Mike Noel and Aaron Tilton, is this; that by working to preserve wilderness resources in Utah, the SUWA and others are limiting the development of energy in the United States, and are therefore leading America to maintain and increase its dependence on foreign oil-producing regimes that fund terrorist organizations. So basically, people who support groups like SUWA are essentially supporting terrorists, and therefore are a danger to America.

Read the article in the Salt Lake Tribune.

Sounds to me like a few more corrupt bastards are filling up their Hummers and building their McMansions on Big Oil's dime. Even better that they do it all under the pretension that they are working for the safety of the nation and in their constituents best interest. I say bullshit. Your elected officials go where the money is, and lets face it, there isn't much profit in researching and advocating alternative fuels, or in preserving land that could easily be destroyed for a buck.

I think I'm gonna go write a check to the SUWA

New Years Resolutions

2007-12-31T10:43:00.000-07:00

-Seek clarity of mind and further attempt to find some structure and solidarity in the mess that is my head.

-Further attempt, without losing sanity, to consolidate my ideals with my fiscal, ethical, and familial responsibilities.

-Make a conscious effort to become a more tactful and conscientious friend, husband, father, son, sibling, citizen.

-Make a conscious effort to keep an open mind and be accepting of the philosophical beliefs of others, and understand that it is perfectly acceptable if they will not or cannot do the same for me.

-Attempt to understand and accept that I am allowed to be who I am. It is acceptable to stand for something, even if that means that I cannot please everyone around me.

-Get back in touch with my creative talents. Work to develop them more fully.

Dear Ann...

2007-11-27T11:57:00.000-07:00

Don't read this if NONI works for you...

2007-11-21T11:38:00.000-07:00

Great site. I find the research conducted about Utah to be especially interesting.

Oh, and quit treating people like commodities. Its a quick way to lose friends.

BUY NOTHING DAY IS FLIPPIN' SWEET

2007-11-21T11:20:00.000-07:00

A 24 hour moratorium on consumer spending - participate by not participating

This should be easy for po' folk like me. As for you fools with your expendable income, do you have the cojones to participate? Or is that killer deal on the Sony Bravia LCD just too "manifest destiny" to pass up?

props to SWOBO for doing this:

Hand-jammies...

2007-11-12T15:21:00.000-07:00

I just had an interesting thought come to mind about the oft-frowned-upon invention known as Hand Jammies:

For those who are going "HUH?" I ganked this description from MGEAR just for you:

"Hand Jammies are a great skin-saving alternative to tape for when climbing those gritty, skin-shredding cracks.

Thin, sticky rubber exterior will instantly improve your crack climbing with added grip
Jammies also feature wide elastic finger loops and extra padding across the knuckles for added crack comfort..."

Now we all know that any climber worth anything would only climb solo and in the nude, because shoes and clothes and ropes and gear and tape are all considered cheating- but for the sake of argument, I'm wondering:

Would you consider a piece of equipment like this to be utterly lame and undesirable because you believe it qualifies as aid? i.e. By wearing them are you cheating because they add grip to your hands that wasn't otherwise there? (Don't forget that they look silly and that all the hardmen will laugh at you..)

If you'd asked me that question a week ago I would have given a resounding "YES! Aid I say! By God, you'd be mad to even consider donning those atrocities!" However, while thumbing through the L.M. catalog, I started to think about things, and another series of questions popped up:

How many climbers tape before climbing cracks?

In a place like Indian Creek, you'd be hard pressed to find somebody who didn't tape.

Exactly how much tape are these climbers going through? In a day? A season?

ROLLS. It takes nearly half of one just to tape for one day of righteous splitter.

So what about this question?

Over a lifetime of climbing, which is more environmentally responsible/sustainable? A few pairs of Hand-jammies, or a gazillion rolls of tape?

Just some of my thoughts. I'd like to hear some of yours.

Justification for an Elitist Attitude

2007-11-06T11:55:00.000-07:00

WTF? Why do these noobs think its ok to do these things? Go back to pulling plastic, or better yet, grab a bag of cheetos and go watch Seacrest.

LINK

This is classic...

"They should have signs and stuff and trash cans outside," said Pham, who climbs regularly in the safety of a San Francisco gym. "I don't think they even clean your rocks off for you out there."

Via The Piton

**EDIT** Apparently the Daily Camera will only let you view their articles for a limited time before they make you register. It's free to sign up, so do it, or not... article is also on the Seattle Times Site

**EDIT AGAIN** All bitterness aside, I think its important for new climbers to recognize the impact that our sport has on the environment. Recognize that you are not master of this domain, it is not yours to use up and destroy. Understand that because you possess the ability to reason, and the power to disrupt the larger system of which you are but a part, the responsibility rests on your shoulders to be a steward of your environment. Preserve it for yourself, your progeny, and for the benefit of the entire system.

A The North Face Post

2007-11-05T15:19:00.000-07:00

Yoink!

2007-11-02T11:42:00.000-06:00

Stole this from Olivine's myspace bulletin:

"From Julia:

One of my company's clients, Horny Toad, which is based in southern California is having an online campaign to raise money for the victims of the fires.

Click on the link below and post a message of support to the victims and Horny Toad will donate $1 to the victim relief fund, up to $10K. Also, please feel free to pass on the link to everyone you know.

LINK

Thanks!"

Thanks Natalie and Julia

The F-System

2007-11-02T10:28:00.000-06:00

Mr. Z (my regular climbing brah) and I have begun to develop a new rating system for gauging the difficulty of climbing route approaches while wearing flip-flops. We call this new system The F- SYSTEM or TFS. Sport climbers and boulderers should find this system particularly useful when making that difficult cragging/session footwear decision.

Now, firm grading is still in the works, but here's an example of how the system functions:

Each grade indicates the technical difficulty of the hardest section:

F0 - Cushy. ie: Carpeted area between couch and beer. (May be more difficult depending upon the cleanliness of your apartment)
F1 - Mild Annoyances. i.e.: Cracked sidewalk or pavement between your car and the gym door.
F2- Getting more annoying. i.e.: Well maintained, relatively flat and debris-free dirt trail.
F3- Who put these rocks here?
F4- WTF!!!?!

..... etc. etc.

I'm working on an excel spreadsheet... look for it in about ten years. Also stay tuned for the DJS, a system that adjusts the difficulty rating for routes by considering the flexibility limitations of designer jeans.

A Great Re-Think

2007-11-01T16:22:00.000-06:00

I subscribe to a number of podcasts. I like to listen to them and pretend to be intelligent while drafting away on whatever BS development project is currently an emergency in the office. Philosopher's Zone is one such p-cast. It's hosted by Alan Saunders and airs on ABC Radio National in Australia. One episode which aired a few months back was particularly resonant for me. I suggest a read of this transcript, its taken from a speech given by Val Plumwood @ the Melbourne Writers Festival in 2oo6.

Can environmental philosophy save the world?

Let me know what you think?